Drum Wrap Manufacturers

Focus on headsail furlers

To furl or not to furl: that is the question, and like most aspects of cruising it’s one that sparks substantial debate. Ask a purist and he (or she) will doubtless eschew the virtues of hankedon sails, but take a dinghy-ride around any anchorage these days and you’ll find the majority of cruisers have chosen to furl. Why is this? Because (despite its faults), roller furling, like GPS, has revolutionised the way we sail. Roller reefing changed all this. A reefable furling headsail can be set, doused, reefed and tacked, all from the comfort of the cockpit. No need to don the wet-weather gear, no reams of billowing canvas to control and last but not least, a clutter-free deck. All of the above makes perfect sense for solo sailors and short-handed cruising couples; so what’s not to like? In a word: performance. As soon as that furling line takes its first wrap, the airfoil shape of the sail is changed. You might think this is more of an issue for racers than cruisers (and to some degree you’d be right), but consider the following. When a furling sail is reefed it is asked to do the job of a smaller sail, which would usually be constructed from heavier-weight fabric. In a “worst-case scenario” (where the loads are too great), the partially furled sail can be stretched and thus permanently damaged. Furling headsails often incorporate a padded foam luff to counteract the mechanical limitations of furlers, which tend to roll the ends of the sail faster (and somewhat tighter) than the main bulk. A foam luff encourages the sail to roll up smoothly and thereby maintain its shape. Modern foams that do not retain a “memory” are an additional help. Theoretically, an efficient way to maximise sail shape is to lower the tack point through the use of appropriate length link plates, and/or flat/underdeck installations. However, as Michael Strong from strongRope points out: “Most cruising sailors want access under their furlers for anchors, etc, so the tack stays raised and sail shape when reefed is a part of that compromise”. Other solutions include fully independent swivels for the tack and head of the sail. As Mitch Ranson of Almasts Australia explains: “When starting to furl, the head and tack initially don’t turn. The fullest part of the sail (usually the middle) rolls in first and the head and tack only follow when the sail draws them around. They are not forced to turn every time”.

Sparkle Tom Drum | Percussion and Drums

Drum Building 101 – How To Wrap A Drum Shell

First you will need to cut your wrap to size. An easy way to do this is to wrap it around your drum shell and mark the edge of the shell all the way around. Some wrap manufacturers don’t make wrap to go all the way around large drums, so you’ll end up having to use 2 pieces for larger drums – mark your cut line around the top of the shell. You may use a sharp pair of scissors to cut the wrap. Sparkles are a little easier to cut than glass glitter wraps. Plan on sharpening your scissors frequently if you need to cut a lot of wrap.

After you cut your wrap to the length of your shell, you’ll need to cut it down to the diameter of your shell. An easy way to do this is to use a flexible measuring tape (for sewing) to measure all the way around the shell and add an extra inch for overlap.

Now lay the wrap down flat and measure out that distance and use a straight edge to mark your next cut. Now lay your wrap down flat on the ground and mark the center of the wrap on a piece of tape. Now you need to do a test fit with your wrap. The age old question has always been “Where should the seam go?” Most drum companies do this: Toms; under a lug, kick; on the bottom where it can’t be seen, Snare; under the strainer to hide it. You will want no less than 1” of overlap for your seam. To make sure you line up your seam when gluing you’ll need to get your test fit wrapped around the drum as tight as possible, with your seam lined up in your designated area, and then transfer the center mark on your wrap to the edge of the shell. Also mark each end of your wrap where the overlap is on the shell.

To achieve maximum adhesion you’ll need to scuff/rough up the shell and the back side of the wrap. The best way to do this is to use 80 grit sand paper and sand the entire surface of the drum and the back of the wrap (don’t sand through your wrap). You’ll also need to peel back the protective plastic on the front of the wrap where your seam will be, measure your 1 inch seam and tape off the area you don’t want to scuff up or get glue on, and sand this down as well.

You can even lightly score the seam with a razor blade.

Lay your shell on a flat surface with your center mark facing you, then grab your wrap also with your center mark facing you, and ever so slightly scoot your wrap closer to the shell until you finally connect in the center, lining up the marks. This step is critical because once your wrap and shell touch, there is no going back.

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